Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Wrangell - St. Elias: The Long and Winding Road

My approach to Wrangell - St. Elias (WES) National Park was as treacherous and lengthy as promised. Driving on the McCarthy Road, hell even LOOKING at the McCarthy Road was an adventure in itself! Its a miracle that the green Jeep I was loaned did not crumble to pieces. Picture this...60 miles of unpaved road. Ok I know that doesn't sound too intense but I'm not talking your run of the mill, Lower 48 unpaved road. This was 60 Miles of deep and continuous potholes. POTHOLES! Not even for a stretch of 3-feet was there a break in these potholes. No wonder nobody but this ONE guy would loan me a vehicle. The McCarthy Road was the final 60 mile leg of an already multi-hundred mile cruise through some of the most breathtaking landscapes.

I forgot to mention...before I even got to THE road. The car broke down on me. Luck would have it that I was nearly stopped at a convenient store. This particular convenient store was the only hint of civilization for MILES...and it was run by a man that quite literally looked like I caught him mid-transformation between man and black bear! Banging on the engine a few times got the car going again but the Bear/man gave me a quart of oil JUST in case I broke down...because there was not a chance in hell someone was going to come for me on the McCarthy Road...the forsaken Road God forgot.

Real quick...I also just want to mention the exceptionally nice Ranger that I met prior to heading out onto the fateful and infamous road ahead of me. We chatted for an hour while I filled up my water and mapped out my course through the WES backcountry. Very helpful and sweet lady, who in her younger years was a kindred adventure-seeker..

Sadly her help was moot by the time I got to the end of the road. The road ends at a footbridge and no cars are henceforth allowed. Arriving very late, and under the blinding darkness of moonless sky, I was left with no choice but to "sleep" for a couple of hours in the car that I would essentially abandon shortly after.

And thus begins the Wrangell - St. Elias portion of my tale...the United States' least visited and most remote National Park...



This is what an Alaska forest looks like...

Oh good! I found Mars!

I don't know, Montana. You might have some "Big Sky" competition!




One mountain...so many colors


Couldn't resist to stop and smell the flowers

Even the alien looking ones

Stood up from smelling the flowers and...BAM!

Yeah seriously, Montana...watch yo back!

I'm in love



So sparse!


Just wait, Beard. You get MUCH worse! It was so young back then!


See my VERY articulate and detailed description below to find out more about this historical bridge on the McCarthy Road

...and the Oscar goes to!

Hopefully this picture makes up for the mess above it.

Monday, December 30, 2013

Anchorage: Intertwined with Familiar Places, Familiar Faces

Of course you all remember Patricia right? Dave's girlfriend and my Spirit Guide through southern Alaska. Well true to form, Patricia offered me a ride BACK to Anchorage after I covered my ground in Seward and Kenai Fjords. The timing worked perfectly with her plans to drive back up to visit Dave. Three cheers for Fate! Hip hip...

So Patricia picked me up on the side of the road and what followed was a merry truck ride back to Anchorage full of tales of adventure and mutual spoken admiration for the beauty contained in this great state's landscape and people. We arrived back to Dave's house not too long before midnight. Plans were conspired and calls were made to ensure Patricia's friend Sarah would join our late evening plans of welcoming and merriment...to include libations, salmon burgers, and foose ball with some of the kindest people in the whole damn state...Dave, Patricia, Job, and Sarah. Miss you guys!

True to form, Sarah's personality, character, and presence mirrored that of her home state...wild beauty. The four of us burned the night oil (do these Alaskan's EVER go to sleep?!) until I was socially exhausted beyond compare. After the house woke up the next morning/afternoon, Sarah offered to take me into town but not before we enjoyed a deep conversation about life and happiness and how best to pursue them. And I'm sure she'll agree with me...I am probably NOT the best person to seek relationship advice from (uh oh, Angela, I ended with a preposition!) While engaged in this open conversation that covered just about anything only BFFs would talk about (keep in mind I met this person probably 10 hours ago) Sarah drove me and my journal back to her place where she effortlessly whipped up the most insanely delicious breakfast burrito my digestive organs have e'er enjoyed (tough competition Casey and Angela!) This all reminds me...I wonder if Sarah ever bought that land up there...hmm I'll have to call her.

Anywho, we left her place and she kindly dropped me off at a coffee shop where I intended to spend much of my day catching up on my writing. Trying not to die takes up a surprising amount of my daily schedule.

I realized it was Sunday and I was actually not in the woods and since I'd been cheating death on a now common occasion, I needed to find a Church and get my prayer on. After leaving St. Nicholas' I found myself at a crossroads. Literally. At the intersection of two streets I was standing and waiting for the light to turn when across the road I saw a familiar face. No not Dave, Patricia, Job, or Marie...but one of my ferry-mates. I couldn't believe it. Devon. The hipster bicyclist guy. The one who just came back home to Anchorage after a badass bike trip across the perimeter of the states. Yeah! Probably one of the only other people I'd even recognize in the entire city. Finding a needle in a stack of 200,000 pieces of hay? Long story short... we recognized each other, he told me about his plans to go to Australia, I told him about my plans to go to Wrangell - St. Elias, and then the guy bought me a beer. Funny how even the least approachable folks in this state will brush their plans aside to take the time and help someone out. And yes...buying me a beer is considered help! To our surprise, the bar also was giving away free food! WHERE AM I!?

I parted ways with Devon and had no where to go. I considered the best choice available was for me to just start walking. I could see downtown Anchorage on the horizon so I made my way down yonder. Traveling through a few local parks and along the water. A remarkably relaxing experience! Why take a cab when walking is free, healthy, and leads you on side memorable side adventures. Piecing together familiar landmarks, I was able to regain my urban bearings and eventually found myself at Dave's front door. Of course he wasn't home so I took the opportunity to explore the Anchorage night scene. As interesting a city Anchorage is, it certainly not the "wild" Alaska that I'd grown accustomed to in the state's backcountry. Needless to say, culture shock hit me in waves.

Eventually I remet up with Dave and Job. Plans were devised and ultimately we decided on meeting up with a friend of Dave's. My exhaustion was getting the best of me from an early stage so my mission switched from social hoopla to taking some time to figure out where the hell I was going to go next...and more importantly...HOW I was going to get there.

Well it was decided. I sadly had to turn down a group dinner with my new Alaskan crew, planned a few days from then, and instead make moves going east towards Wrangell - St. Elias National Park. Hitchhiking was out of the question...NOBODY goes out that way evidently. And I'd soon realize why.

As luck would have it, I found the ONE car rental company in Anchorage that would lend me a vehicle to traverse the infamous McCarthy road. You'll see where the road gets its reputation in a future post. In addition to the car guy handing me over the keys he also offered me his shotgun (I don't think I'm in DC anymore, Toto!) and bear spray after I told him where I was headed...alone. Oh good! More ways to make me feel confident in my surely foolish future endeavors! Well since I was packing my own heat, I turned down the shotgun but graciously accepted his bearspray.

With the turn of the ignition I was off towards scenic and VERY remote eastern Alaska...


We Intertwined by The Hush Sound on Grooveshark



Had to catch up on my writing

No car...no place to go. I guess I'll just walk and see where I end up. THAT looks like a city!

So happy I took this very relaxing detour. Not epic at all but still beautiful and peaceful.

Not bad for a phone camera

It was so nice out. Much more pleasant than the harshness of the Icefield

Hmm I kinda remember Patricia mentioning I'd like this trail. Wait! I wonder if I can find Dave's place!

Psshhh that sign seemed like more of a suggestion.

With the tide, this landscape is submerged for portions of the day.

Couldn't have said it better myself, Mr. Graffiti

Oh right...the epicness had to return sooner or later. On my way out of Anchorage...

Just from the side of the road.



Mmmmm I think I'll just hang out here for a bit...

...so I did

Spoiler alert for those who haven't seen/read The Hobbit - this is where I confront Smaug...

Monday, December 23, 2013

Kenai Fjords: Otherwordly

As planned, I packed up camp and hoofed it a few miles into downtown Seward to meet Gary in the lobby of his hotel. After a complimentary breakfast (albeit in this case...a stolen one) we hit the fog covered roads towards the trailhead for the Harding Icefield. After saying goodbye to Gary and underexpressing my gratitude, he sped off in his fancy rental car with all the bells and whistles. The odds of me ever seeing Gary again are thin at best but wherever he is, I hope his bucket list keeps getting smaller while he becomes increasingly less rushed to check it off.
After my boot straps were fastened I stood up, filled my water bladder, and rolled up my sleeves. Before getting underway I ran into two travelers who I met as I left the Denali backcountry - Gloria and Alfredo (wait was that his name?...erg I don't feel like getting up to check my adventure tome). Small world, huh? Hundreds of miles away and I see probably the two of the very few faces I'd recognize in the entire state. The familiarity was a welcome surprise.

Ahead of us was a 3000 foot ascent over 3 miles. Without my pack, this was a piece of cake. Along the path there were countless switchbacks, Jurassic Park style brush, bears, and over my left shoulder was an enormous glacier that radiated from the Harding Icefield atop the mountain. The weather changes from dry to rainy were expected but never could have I expected the landscape changes. Over the next few hours the path seemingly lead through Jurassic Park to Hoth. At this point, does anyone still think there might be a chance I'm not a nerd? If I haven't convinced you yet I'm sure by the time this is all done I could prove it. Jokes aside...the Harding Icefield is truly otherworldly. In just a matter of hours and miles, I had been transported from one world to another. See for yourself...



Fitting...plus tis the season!



Dino DNA!

Waves of ice!


The glacier carving the earth atop the Harding Icefield


It was about to get a heluva lot colder...

So nice of him/her to join me!

Yes keep eating those berries...I taste gross!


As long as I stay more interested in you and not vice versa

Up yonder...the Harding Icefield...

What makes those tire tred-like tracks?!

A river of ice



I think this is called a hanging glacier...someone correct me if I'm wrong

The Peak above the Icefield

So tempted to sleep here

Added my carving to the crowd of carvings

Approaching the icefield...

First glimpse onto the icefield...it stretched on for miles and miles and miles! A natural wonder (at least for me)





Ice cave...too bad I didn't have my spelunking gear!

See the cave?



What design do YOU see in the ice?


What did I tell you...otherworldly, right?! 3 hours prior I was in a lush forest with my sleeves rolled up

A picture does this 1% justice

Self-proclaimed BAMF!

To give you a sense of scale...that ice cube down there...is roughly the size of a large Irish Catholic family...


Looks like I'm not the only one who found this place romantic.

I mean look how effing blue this ice is!

Incredible lines...did I mention that nature is pretty awesome

A patch of hope in a land of despair

And the rain came...


Green is still my favorite color...yup

Vastness

A stream carving through a glacier, carving through the mountain

Yup...never seen anything like this before

Ice: "Photograph me!"

I wonder where that dirt started its glacier ride!?

Yup..I'm laying underneath a glacier. No big deal

Am I back in Ireland?


Like Alaska...hard and rugged